We’ve all been there: you have a high-quality USB-C PD (Power Delivery) charger sitting on your desk, but your latest DIY project—be it an LED controller, a CCTV hub, or a Raspberry Pi expansion board—requires a traditional DC Barrel Jack.
Standard "thin" DC pigtails often fail under pressure, causing voltage drops or overheating when you pull serious current. Today, we’re looking at how to combine a heavy-duty 10A DC Male Pigtail with a USB-C Female Breakout Board to create the ultimate power adapter.
The Secret Ingredient: 18AWG Pure Copper
Most off-the-shelf DC cables use thin 22AWG or 24AWG wire. If you try to run 5A or 10A through those, they act more like a heater than a conductor.
This heavy-duty pigtail features a 0.75mm² (approx. 18AWG) pure copper core. This is crucial because:
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Zero Throttling: It handles up to 10A without the dreaded voltage drop.
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Durability: The reinforced molded connector is built for "frequent flyers"—those who plug and unplug their gear daily.
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Versatility: The 5.5mm x 2.1mm (or 2.5mm) plug fits almost every standard DC-in port on the market.
The Project: USB-C to DC 5V Conversion
By soldering this pigtail to a USB-C Female Breakout Board, you can bridge the gap between modern power standards and legacy hardware.
Why do this?
Many high-performance expansion boards (like those for the Raspberry Pi or Jetson Nano) require a stable DC 5V input via a barrel jack. With this DIY adapter, you can use a single high-wattage USB-C laptop charger to power your entire project.
Installation Steps:
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Prep the Breakout: Take your USB-C Female Board. These boards usually have clearly marked pads for VBUS (+) and GND (-).
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Match the Leads: The heavy-duty pigtail comes with pre-tinned ends.
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Red Wire → VBUS (+)
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Black Wire → GND (-)
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Solder: Since the pigtail uses 18AWG wire, it’s thick! Ensure your soldering iron is hot enough to create a solid bond on the breakout pads.
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Insulate: Use a small piece of heat-shrink tubing or a 3D-printed enclosure to protect the connection.
Final Thoughts
If you’re tired of "low voltage" warnings on your DIY electronics, the problem is likely your cable, not your power supply. Upgrading to an 18AWG pure copper pigtail ensures that every millivolt from your USB-C source actually reaches your hardware.
Ready to build your own high-current adapter? Grab a few of these heavy-duty pigtails and a USB-C breakout board to future-proof your workbench!
Would you like me to create a simple wiring diagram to show exactly where the Red and Black wires should go on the USB-C breakout board?